Showing newest 7 of 16 posts from October 2009. Show older posts
Showing newest 7 of 16 posts from October 2009. Show older posts
Monday, October 26, 2009
Wednesday, October 21, 2009
Thursday, October 8, 2009
Biracial Hair Care Guide
Expectations for Biracial Hair
The number one complaint we get about black hair is that it looks dry or dull. We get the same complaint about biracial hair, followed closely by complaints of “frizzyness” and difficulty in combing. Before you go too far to make your natural hair full of sheen and shine, it’s best to have the proper expectation.
Natural Black or African hair will not be as shiny as permed hair or Caucasian hair. A major part of what makes hair shiny is the structure of the hair, not just the amount of oil or moisture it contains. If the cuticles lay flat (smooth hair), the hair will reflect light better (translated will appear shiny). If the cuticles are raised, the hair will absorb light (translated will appear more dull). Without changing the structure of the hair (as in getting a perm or relaxer for us African Americans), our hair will only be so shiny. By applying a lot of grease to make it shinier, you could end up damaging the hair. Having said that, natural African hair can appear healthy, smooth and have a nice healthy sheen.
As I said, the second complaint we get most often about biracial hair is that it is too curly or too frizzy. There are some things you can do to control frizzyness and curliness. But, if you want to effect “permanent” (permanent until it grows out anyway) changes, you are looking at a chemical process. One thing we often advise mothers about though is please do not expect your child’s hair to be like yours. And, please do not make her feel as though something is wrong with her hair because it’s “frizzy” or curly. You should picture your child’s hair as a collection of fine fibers. You should treat it as gently as you would a fine washable silk blouse. The better you treat her hair, the easier it will be to grow and the better it will look. You should be aware that African hair and biracial hair tends to be drier than Caucasian hair. The structure of our hair makes it more difficult for the oils to work their way from the scalp to the ends of the hair.
Because our hair is kinky, it tends to tangle more and pulling these tangles out can cause breakage. In spite of appearances, black hair and biracial hair tends to be more fragile than Caucasian hair. The lack of moisture and elasticity and the kinks that get grabbed when styling or combing make for hair that can be broken easily. Someone once asked me if natural hair is meant to be combed. Actually, the answer probably is no. I don’t think our hair was structured to be combed at all. So, as long as we’re going to do it, we have to do it causing the least amount of damage possible. Both of my daughters have natural hair. We receive a lot of compliments about their hair. They are technically not biracial. We have a mixed heritage (as do most African Americans). But, many of the same things I do for them can be adapted for biracial hair care. Here are my “secrets”.
Tools for Biracial Hair Maintenance
* Wide tooth comb or pick or brush made for African American hair. We like “detangling” combs and the Kakakiki KombBrush
* Good moisturizing shampoo and cream conditioner
* Moisturizing solution or spray
* Deep conditioning treatment or hot oil treatment for once a month application
* Satin sleep cap or satin pillow cases
* Spray bottle to spritz hair in case you just want to hit it with some water to comb
* Microwaveable or professional conditioning heat cap
Combing Out Kinky Biracial Hair
This section will be particularly important to those of you who have not worked with kinky hair. Never try to comb out kinky hair while it is dry. Use a moisturizer to provide elasticity to the hair and to reduce friction. Be sure you have a wide tooth comb. You might want to look for a “detangling” comb. If you’re used to fine tooth combs, it might look a little strange to you. But, generally speaking, the farther apart the teeth the better. I generally do not use bristled brushes because I find they tend to grab the hair. I have a Kakakiki KombBrush, which does a great job on the girls’ natural hair. It’s a combination comb and brush in one device. It’s shaped like a brush, but has round teeth more like a comb. Be patient and gentle when combing kinky hair. If your daughter is screaming, you might want to consider that you are pulling too hard. I begin by working in sections. I part the hair and tie off the part I am not working on at the time. I gently grasp the hair near the scalp with my free hand and work the comb against that hand, rather than against the scalp. Comb gently beginning near the roots and work your way up- until all kinks are free. I then tie that section off and start on the next section.
Tips for Washing Biracial Hair
You should begin by washing hair about once a week. In the winter this might stretch out a little longer. I wash more often in the summer when the kids are playing outside and sweating. But, one of the commonly made mistakes non-African parents of Biracial or African children make is to wash their children's hair too frequently. Many of my Caucasian friends wash their own hair daily because they have fine hair that gets weighed down with their natural oils. In a biracial child, overwashing can lead to dullness and dryness. For biracial hair care, you may want to consider washing a little more often than once a week. But, you will rarely want to wash more than a couple of times a week. I like to use different shampoos to eliminate the possibility of build-up from a particular shampoo.
Between Washings
If your child swims or sweats from her scalp, you may be tempted to wash too often. One way to stretch out the time between washings is to just rinse the hair with warm water, condition and go from there.
Washing an infant's hair
If your child is very young (too young to keep her eyes closed), use a no tears baby shampoo. These shampoos contain agents that keep the eyes from stinging. Our shampoo for babies and young children is Kayshay Kids Baby Shampoo, which is a mild, moisturizing shampoo excellent for babies. Most of these shampoos can be drying, especially for African or biracial hair care. So, if you use someone else's baby shampoo, transition to a nice mild shampoo as soon as possible.Drying biracial hair
Wash gently, but thoroughly, massaging the scalp while washing. When you dry, blot with a towel rather than rubbing vigorously. Avoid heat as much as possible for drying. Allow the hair to air dry or you can even use a conditioning cap to drive some of the moisture out before blasting the hair with forced hot air.
Tips for Conditioning Biracial Hair
Always follow each shampooing with a moisturizing and/or detangling conditioner.Deep Conditioning Biracial Hair
At least once or twice a month, after shampooing, deep condition the hair. I use one several products:
* Treasured Locks Deep V Conditioner
* Treasured Locks Hot Hair Repair
* Baka Beauty Sahara Clay
* HumiNature Rhassoul Clay
Put one of the deep conditioning products on after shampooing and use either a microwave or professional heat cap for 30 minutes or so. The gentle moist heat from the caps allows the cuticles of the hair to open and the moisturizer to penetrate the hair shaft. A good hot oil treatment could be done here instead.
Tips for Moisturizing Biracial Hair
The most important key to healthy African American or Biracial hair care is moisture. Because of the structure of our hair, it tends to become dry easily. Dry hair lacks elasticity and therefore is brittle. Moisturize with good products and do it often. Moisturizing is not necessarily the same as oiling. And it is certainly not the same as putting on what we used to call “grease”. After the Deep Conditioning or Conditioning I moisturize. I recommend moisturizing at least twice a week. I moisturize whenever I style and often in-between, if we happen to be wearing a leave in style for several days. I use one of these products:* Treasured Locks Leave-in Spray Conditioner
* Black Earth Protective Mist Bodifier
* Treasured Locks Conditioning Balm
* SheaMoisture Shea Butter Leave-In Conditioner
* Treasured Locks Locks Of Curls Pomade & Gel
To Oil or Not to Oil Biracial Hair
The subject of whether to oil or not is controversial in African or biracial hair care. You’ll have to decide for yourself. My experience has been that, for my daughters, and me, oil is good for our hair. The right oil though is of vital importance. We only use all natural oils, mostly plant oils. We avoid mineral oil and petroleum based products. The one notable exception to the plant oil rule is emu oil (an animal oil). I love emu oil! Not only does it soften and lubricate, it contains essential fatty acids and reduces inflammation which helps hair grow. However, oiling is one of those places where you’ll really have to experiment. One of my daughters can use a heavier oil than the other. She can even use pure Shea Butter. The other daughter’s hair is too thin and looks weighed down with Shea Butter. My biracial nieces have different needs. One has very fine, smooth hair and needs no additional oils at all. The other can use a light oil which really helps control the frizziness.To apply the product, I put a little of the product in the palm of my hand (and melt it, if it’s a solid product). I then rub it on the hair and massage into the scalp. I will not use anything that doesn’t melt at body temperature. If I happen to use something with a little beeswax (which has a relatively high melting point), I make sure it still melts at body temperature so that it doesn’t build up. I often mix a couple of the products. To be safe, I mostly use products that are liquid at room temperature. Some of my favorite oils are:
* Shea Butter Oil- has the wonderful properties of Shea Butter, but in a much lighter, liquid form. We began our company selling nothing but Shea Butter products. That was before Shea Butter was as popular as it is now. It’s still a key ingredient in many of our hair and skin care products. We use Shea Butter as the main carrier oil in several of our products.
* Emu Oil- unbelievably good for scalp health. Improves circulation, reduces inflammation and has natural antiseptic properties. All help promote hair growth.
* Jojoba Oil- the closest thing to natural sebum itself. Jojoba oil is technically a wax, not an oil. It can actually make oily skin less oily and dry skin more oily, In other words, it helps bring skin into balance. In the case of biracial hair care, we are generally seeking to add oil to the scalp.
* Castor Oil- nice all natural plant oil that helps humectify (draw moisture to) the hair and scalp
You can choose from the following products (from heaviest to lightest in order)
* Pure Shea Butter- Treasured Locks sells a premium grade raw Shea Butter
* SheaMoisture Shea Butter Herbal Pomade (contains some petroleum)
* Black Earth Strengthener- (contains some petroleum)
* Treasured Locks Herbal Hair Balm- Shea Butter based with other natural butters and oils. Solid product with a low melting point.
* SheaMoisture Shea Butter Leave-In Conditioner
* Treasured Locks Hair & Scalp Elixir
* Treasured Locks Conditioning Balm
* Treasured Locks H2G Hair Growth Serum- with Emu oil. My favorite.
Repetition
This is very important. I repeat the Moisturize and/or Oiling steps above on a daily basis when I’m combing/styling the girls’ hair. Even if we’re in a non-comb style (like twists), I’ll touch them up just about daily, with something. I’m careful to avoid build-up and I don’t use a lot of product.
Styling Tips for Biracial Hair
Generally, I style the girls’ hair without the use of styling products. Since they are young, mostly, they’re in ponytails, plaits, braids or the like. But, I mix it up and am very cautious about overly tight styles that can lead to scalp damage and even a certain type of hair loss. I especially avoid any styling products that contain alcohol might be drying to their hair. You’ll want to be very careful with hair sprays, mousse products, gels etc.
How to Maintain Natural Ringlets in Biracial Hair
Many biracial people have naturally beautiful curls when their hair is wet and would like to keep that look once the hair dries. If you have naturally soft curls, one of our clients has suggested a way that she styles her biracial hair that works for her.For those with softer, natural curls who just want more definition, this is a great technique. This hair style is well suited to bi-racial hair types. For soft springy curls here is the procedure.
1. Wash hair at least 1x per week (the other days just rinse)
2. Detangle hair each day
3. Put in a leave in conditioner. Whatever helps detangle and leaves hair feeling soft. SheaMoisture Shea Butter Leave-In Conditioner is great for this step.
4. Saturate hair with Black Earth Protective Mist Bodifier
5. Put Treasured Locks Locks of Curls Curl Defining Pomade & Gel or other styling gel in hair
6. Apply a little hair oil
7. Let air dry if possible (you can put your hair in a ponytail to stretch it a little or just let it air dry
8. In the winter- use a blow dryer on the lowest temp, gently stretching the hair as you dry it.
Controlling Frizzyness & Curliness in Biracial Hair
As I said earlier, expectations are important when it comes to hair. Most of the time biracial children are not going to have hair that is as smooth as Caucasian or Asian children. So completely eliminating frizziness and/or curliness may require drastic methods and send a message that the natural hair is undesirable. But, we do have products that will help reduce the frizzyness, to an extent. Natural-Laxer MIX is a treatment that can be applied about once a month. It is all-natural and works to gently tame wild hair. It does not actually alter the structure of the hair like a relaxer would. It can be applied in the home and wears off after several weeks. For those looking for a more permanent solution, a mild relaxer, a texturizer or a kiddie perm might be something to consider. Before you do though, please read our precautions when it comes to permanents/relaxers (see below).
Perms and Relaxers for Biracial Hair Care
We often get questions concerning perms for young girls. Generally, we recommend against perms for prepubescent girls. Their hair and skin aren’t fully developed and changing their hair texture this early in life (especially a permanent change) can send the message to them that their hair isn’t good enough. Our nine year old is proud of her natural hair and says she will never perm it. But, our six year old says she will. Ironically, it’s the older one who has the thicker hair. When they are old enough, they can decide on their own. I use Natural-Laxer MIX on our older daughter. It has made her hair much more manageable and improved the texture. I can comb her hair in about half the time it used to take and I’ve seen a large reduction in the amount of hair left in the comb after combing. Perming or relaxing the hair might seem like an easy solution to the kinky/frizzy/hard-to-comb problem. But, there are several things you should know before heading down this path. We’ve seen unaware mothers actually make things much worse by not knowing this before getting started. Consider the following before you start perming.
* We do not recommend home box perms. People often ask us to recommend specific perms to them. A beautician has told us that they are not the same quality as the salon perms. I don’t know if that’s true. But, even if it is not, a chemical relaxer or perm is a process that is best performed by a professional. Serious damage can be done to the hair (that can never be repaired, it has to grow out). A relaxer, improperly applied can do permanent damage to the scalp. The only compromise we would even contemplate on this would be to take your child to a local beauty school, if you just cannot pay the money the salons are charging. At least they’ll get the perm under professional supervision. And, the cost is usually a pretty small fraction of the cost in a salon.
* If you insist on applying perms at home, please read and follow the instructions carefully. Do not keep perming the part of the hair that has already been treated. Only apply the perm to the new growth (the kinky stuff underneath). Perming the same part of a strand of hair over and over again thins it a little each time. Eventually, it will break. This is not an "if" question. It's a "when".
* If you begin to relax your child’s hair, you must keep on doing it. When the natural hair reaches a certain length underneath the relaxed hair (hair grows from the root), the hair begins going through a transition stage. At this point, the hair is very vulnerable to excessive breakage. Generally speaking, a perm will be required every 6-8 weeks unless you are prepared to transition back to natural hair. Transitioning, without taking proper precautions can be very traumatic because of the breakage.
* If you relax your child’s hair, you weaken the hair and reduce the ability for the scalp to naturally oil itself. Permed hair is especially delicate and must be cared for even more diligently than natural hair. But, it's better to perm hair than to fry it with excessive heat trying to make it straight or to end up breaking it off by combing it too aggressively.
Ponytail Do’s and Don’ts
As I mentioned earlier, these bound hairstyles are great for little girls. They keep the hair from going wild and from tangling. I can often get a few days out of a style, too. But, these bound styles can lead to hair disaster- as in severe, and even permanent, hair loss. Here are some dos and don’ts you will want to be aware of:* Don’t- use common rubber bands to hold her hairstyles. Also, avoid the bands with the metal clips, which grab and break kinky hair. Rubber bands cause too much friction on the hair and will eventually cause breakage. Buy covered bands or smooth bands made especially for hair.
* Do- remove any bands from the hair every night before bed time. Even the best bands should be removed before retiring for the evening.
* Don’t- pull the hair too tight. While it may be attractive, if you see your daughter’s eyebrows arching like she’s just had a face-lift you could be doing damage to her scalp. If you start to notice bumps around her hairline or elsewhere on her scalp, you could be causing traction alopecia. Normally, changing the hairstyle easily reverses this. But, if it is continued, this practice can lead to permanent hair loss.
Sleeping
As instructed above, please remove tight bands from hair before sleeping. Using a satin pillowcase or a satin sleep cap will reduce friction with the pillow and help retain moisture in the hair.
Trimming the Ends
The ends of the hair are the oldest parts because hair grows from the root. If the ends are neglected, they can begin to split; causing damage even further down the hair. It may be counter-intuitive. But, trimming the ends can actually lead to having longer hair. If you notice the ends of the hair are very dry, you might want to make sure you are doing a good job conditioning. If you notice they looked frayed, more tangled than normal or split, have them trimmed. I neglected this for a long time with my girls. But, since starting, I immediately noticed an improvement in the manageability of their hair. It was actually easier to comb just after trimming the ends.
How to Take Care of a Mixed Child's Hair
Discovering how to care for your biracial child’s hair is simple once you know how to style and have found the right products. Biracial hair is just as beautiful as any other hair type.
The art of hair care is simple once you master it once. Once you learn which products and ingredients work well with different hair types, especially your biracial child’s hair, it can make things so much easier.
Just as you have experimented with different shampoos, conditioners and hair care products on your own hair; you should also experiment to find the best hair products that produce the best results for your child’s hair.
Due to the diverse textures of biracial hair, no one rule can be followed. Each hair type is quite unique and therefore may require different styling techniques, products and maintenance.
But first you must remember to first take time to understand your hair and its needs. But most importantly, you should also be patient! The only way you will begin to know your hair is by trying various techniques and seeing what works best for you. The techniques used on one individual may not necessarily work on another, but through trial and error your hair care routine can become much easier.
But for someone working with biracial hair, these tips are most useful when followed correctly:
Allow your biracial child or African American child to get to know their hair texture. Let them embrace their curls while giving them lots of styling options so that they will learn to love their curls. Teach them gradually how to care for their hair. The more they learn about themselves and their biracial hair the more they will love themselves. Curls are a blessing not a curse. |
Caring for Your African American or Biracial Child's Hair
Caring for Your African American or Biracial Child's Hair
Caring for your angel's tresses can be a daunting experience, but it doesn't have to be. Armed with the proper education, the right technique, and, most importantly, the right products - you can master the art of caring for ethnic hair.
For as long as I can remember, I have been fascinated with hair. Because my hair was easy to manage, I began styling my own hair at an early age. Using my long locks, I taught myself how to French braid and soon became a styling expert (or so I thought). As I matured, my interest in healthy Black hair peaked. I learned which hair care ingredients were good for my hair type and which ingredients were not. I learned how to shampoo, condition, and properly handle my hair. Most importantly, I learned to love my hair. With the proper care, your child will love his/her hair too!
Over the years I've read, seen, and experienced unbelievable acts of ignorance regarding ethnic hair care. It is my attempt to provide a few basic tips and tricks so you will avoid common pitfalls.
What You Need to Know
Black hair is extremely fragile. A gentle touch is required to avoid unnecessary breakage and hair loss; therefore, always use a wide-tooth comb or pick when combing the hair. Avoid fine-tooth combs as they snag and pull out curly/kinky hair. Invest in a quality brush; natural boar brushes are the best.
Curly/kinky hair needs moisture, moisture, and more moisture! Consider this when purchasing hair care products. Avoid drying products such as hair spray, mousse, holding gels, etc. Opt for moisturizers, leave-in conditioners, and styling lotions.
All products are not created equal. Just because a product claims to be created for "curly hair" doesn't guarantee that it will be suitable for ethnic curly hair. Products created for Nicole Kidman's curly hair may not work for Angela Bassett's. Caucasian hair tends to produce more sebum (oily secretion created by the sebaceous gland) than Black textured hair; therefore, Black hair requires more oil. Read, no, scrutinize the ingredient list. Look for natural oils and quality ingredients. Remember, the ingredients are listed in order of volume.
What You Need to Have on Hand
Wide-tooth comb or pick... the wider the better (Goody has a variety of combs available at most grocery stores)
Natural bristle brush (The Body Shop has a nice selection of brushes)
Hydrating shampoo (try Curly Qs Hydrating Shampoo)
Moisturizing Conditioner (try Curly Qs Quenched Conditioner)
A daily moisturizer - this will add needed moisture, and ease Combability (Moist Curls is a great daily moisturizer)
Common Mistakes Made When Caring for Ethnic Hair
Over-shampooing - Black hair should not be shampooed every day, or every other day for that matter. Instead, shampoo your child's hair every 5-7 days. I know this may confuse those who shampoo daily; however, you must remember that Black hair needs oil, and because it distributes less sebum, frequent shampooing can dry out the hair and scalp. Product recommendation: Try our Curly Qs Hydrating Shampoo. It gently cleanses the hair without stripping away essential oils and nutrients.
Tip for getting through "shampoo-less" days: Rinse hair with warm water, apply our Quenched conditioner, and rinse well. This will give you a clean start and provide added conditioning and moisture without stripping away protective oils.
Under-conditioning - Proper conditioning is one of the most important steps for healthy hair. Unfortunately, most do not take the time to adequately do so. I recommend giving your daughter a deep conditioning (with heat) once a month, especially during the winter season. Product recommendation: Our Quenched conditioner works great...with or without heat.
Using the wrong products - We've discussed the need for natural oils for Black hair; however, you must know that not all oil is good oil. One misconception that plagues African Americans concerning hair care is the use of grease. Grease (thick pomade-like product that usually contains mineral oil and/or petrolatum) is commonly used to moisturize dry hair and scalp. Do not use products that contain mineral oil or petrolatum. Both of these cheap oils clog pores, rob the hair's moisture, and can retard hair growth. Natural oils are the best bet. Jojoba and coconut oil are great conditioning oils. Shea butter is an excellent moisturizer. Avocado oil is rich in vitamins A, D, and E, potassium, and scalp-soothing sulfur. Curls and Curly Qs products contain all of these!
Combing, detangling, and styling faux pas - To avoid pain, tears, and massive hair loss when combing out kinky hair, part the hair into four sections. Get a tight grip on the hair (not to hurt your child) and start combing at the bottom and work your way up to the top, section by section. If her hair is extremely thick and coarse, secure the combed out section with a pony tail holder to avoid further tangling. You should always use a moisturizer when combing her out hair, doing so will help to soften the hair and ease combability. Never use water to "wet" the hair! Product recommendation: Our Moist Curls moisturizer is a great choice!
Ponytails and Pigtails
Girls and ponytails/pigtails seem to go hand and hand. Here are a few tips to avoid pigtail disaster:
Do not use rubber bands to secure her ponytails, instead use elastics and covered bands. Rubber bands can cause undue breakage and damage.
Remember to always remove the ponytail holders before bed time.
Make sure you braid (or twist) the hair completely... all the way to the ends. Exposing the ends to environmental elements will guarantee split ends.
I recommend adding a coat of leave-in conditioner to the ends before braiding for extra protection. Remember, the ends are the oldest and most fragile part of the hair. They require extra attention.
How to Braid Cornrows
Cornrows are a popular African style of braiding the hair along the scalp. They are also known as "underhand track braids". It's a traditional art that anyone who has the patience can learn, but it takes some time and skill to master. This article will help you get started with the basics while avoiding some of the mistakes beginners often make.
Steps
1. Plan your style. Having in mind what your end goal looks like will help you to form a path for getting there. You can do this in your head, draw a picture, or make some marks on a Styrofoam wig holder. The easiest amount to begin with will probably be four to six sections from the front to the back of the head.
2. Spritz some water, or water mixed with detangler, on the hair. Comb or brush it through to remove all major tangles. The hair should be slightly damp, but not too wet. The reason for this is that you don't want to have to pull the hair a lot to create the tension needed to hold the style together. Hair contracts when it's wet and expands as it dries. Despite what some people say about a tight braid, this is the best way to achieve it - not by pulling the hair hard away from the scalp.
3. Part a section of hair that you would like the cornrow to follow along. put the sides of the hair that you aren't braiding in two pigtails so they don't get in your way. Move other hair out of the way so that you have a clear path to follow. Then take a small section of hair where you want the cornrow to begin. Don't take too much, especially near the hairline, or you will have to pull too hard to continue.
4. Separate that small section into three strands and make a normal braid of about 2 "stitches" to get it started.
5. Holding the two outer strands aside, reach down under this initial braid to add a little hair to the middle strand. Fully merge this new hair to the middle strand so that it becomes a part of it, and you again have 3 strands. Make a braid stitch out of these strands.
6. Continue braiding, each time adding a little more hair to the middle strand, and repeat this until you've run out of hair to add. If you've reach the end and there is still hair left over, then continue with a regular 3 strand braid.
7. Secure the cornrow with a snap bead, hair clip, end bar, barrette, bolo tie tip, or whatever you like, just so long as you will be able to easily remove it later. Uncovered rubber bands (elastics) are not recommended unless they are the kind made specifically for hair. The ones made for office use will break off the hair.
Tips
* People with straighter or slicker hair may need to use what is called "aqua wax" or a protein hair gel to help the style last, and to preclude the need for extra tension during styling.
* If you do not wish to wet the hair first, you may consider at least using a hair cream or hair mask or leave in conditioner. (However if you wet fragile hair it could cause breakage because hair shrinks as it dries.) Some people don't like to wet the hair, and this is fine. However, if you don't, you will need to be extra mindful of tension. Use a featherlight touch.
* Precise braiding, not pulling hard from the scalp, is what makes a long lasting style. Pulling too hard from the scalp does nothing to help a style to last. It only leads to pain and hair loss.
* Hair can be washed with cornrows in. Simply wear a stocking cap over it, and use a shower massager or water pick to force water underneath the braids. Use a diluted shampoo and water mixture to wash, clear water to rinse, and spritz the hair with a leave in conditioner or hair oil afterwards.
* If you tuck the hair under, you are making an "invisible" track braid, and if you reach for hair from beneath outwards, you are making a "visible" track braid.
* People with fine or sleek, straight hair may want to use some sort of braid spray to help make the hair "stickier" so that the braid does not fall out as it's being put in the slicker, fine hair.
* Narrow braids stay in longer than larger ones.
Warnings
* This style should not hurt. If you can see the scalp is raised, or the person is complaining that it's painful, back it up and start over. Too much braid tension can cause traction alopecia (a specific type of hair loss), and it might be permanent. It can also lead to infections and irritations.
* To keep braids in place, use a moisturizing flexible hair gel or aqua wax during styling.
* Wear a scarf or durag while sleeping, and braids will stay for up to one week. After that they'll probably need to be redone, depending on how thick the rows are.
* For curlier or "nappy" hair, braids can last for up to a month.
Things You'll Need
* A rat tailed comb. These can be found at many beauty supply stores, but if you can't find one, the end of a tint brush may suffice.
* Coated rubber bands for hair.
* Plenty of time.
* Be careful in the sun. It is very easy to get a sunburn on your scalp, because the rows will expose the skin. Rub in sunscreen or wear a hat.
* You may need hair grease and/or aqua wax.
o For straight hair you may need to use a hair wax that is based on distilled water, not oil. It looks sort of like a firm gel. Aquarius Wax and Ice Wax are good ones. Butch Wax may do the job, but it is a little oily.
o Very tightly curly hair should be treated with a moisturizer that does not break down too soon. This excludes most hair creams. The best thing to use is a hair food or hair grease, or a natural oil mixture.
* Spray bottle to dampen if hair gets too dry.
All About Weave Hair!!
Remy vs. non-Remy hair:
During the collecting and sorting of the donated hair it is divided into two groups:
· Remy hair: Hair that has been cut, and maintained with the roots aligned and bound together at the top of the bundle. These bundles are carefully preserved throughout the export process and arrive at the factory still intact.
· Non-Remy hair: Hair that does not have its roots aligned. It may have been collected off the floor, or there may be some other reason they were unable to keep the roots together and running in the same direction.
This hair is sold at a much cheaper price than remy hair.
Once the hair arrives at the factory, it is treated in a hydrochloric acid bath to remove the cuticle. A word of warning - hydrochloric acid is extremely hazardous. Please do not put yourself at risk by experimenting with this chemical! It’s not the remy hair; remy hair is relatively easy to process and the damage inflicted during de-cuticalization is slight. Non-remy hair is the villain.
Non-remy hair requires a higher concentration of acid since the cuticle runs in both directions. This frequently results in hair with very low moisture content that appears dry and straw-like. Moisture is critical to good-looking hair. Human hair usually contains 10.5% - 11% moisture (measured in a controlled environment of ISO 40% - 63% moisture). Non-remy hair has trouble retaining this vital moisture.
Unfortunately, the problems do not stop here. The de-cuticalization process itself is often conducted inefficiently. Some bundles of hair are only partially processed. Others are over-treated or under-treated, which contributes to tangling problems and limp or lifeless hair. Regrettably, a lot of this lower grade non-remy hair can find its way into “expensive” custom-made hairpieces. Your vendors usually have no way to tell whether the hair in the units they sell is remy, non-remy, or non-remy blended with remy hair. This doesn’t make things easy for them.
We have to understand that non-cuticle human hair means hair that has been fundamentally damaged. I compare it to my hand losing its protective layer of skin. I know this sound brutal, but mechanically it’s similar. If your hand were damaged in this way, you would run to the hospital where they would apply bandages and oil-based ointments not just isolate the pain but to prevent chaffing that could cause additional damage. Well, the same logic applies to non-cuticle hair - except it will never heal. Just like the hospital, we try to isolate and protect the hair by applying special oil-based liquids such as conditioners that (should be) designed specifically for non-cuticle hair. If you use hair care products made for normal hair, you will be doing your client a major disservice.
Regular conditioners are formulated to condition the cuticle layer, a very durable layer that is over 30% protein. Instead, you should be using a conditioner formulated for the under-layer without cuticle. This layer is made up of only 3% protein (10 times less!) and requires a more powerful lubricating system! But it doesn’t stop there.
The lack of a protective cuticle layer has other consequences. It allows everything to be easily absorbed into the hair – and lets vital moisture out again. Non-remy hair dries at a much more rapid rate and quickly loses its luster and body. You would never consider cleaning your favorite fine Italian cotton shirt with same detergent you use to clean your old cast iron pot. And you would not clean your carpet with the same detergent you use to clean your wood table. And yet many people do precisely this when it comes to human hair. Let me repeat - cuticle and non-cuticle hair are different product types with different maintenance needs. Each one requires its own specialist product.
We are going to classify human hair as follows. I will describe the characteristics of each variety and summarize its pros and cons.
Origin: China, Eastern Europe, Russia and India
Grade: Cuticle, Non-Cuticle, Virgin, Processed, Single Drawn, Double Drawn, Remy and Non-Remy
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Type: Caucasian, Asian
Chinese Hair (aka Asian Hair): A thick and coarse fiber that is naturally straight and dark brown to black in color.
Advantages: High Quantity, Durability and Low Cost. It is the strongest human hair and is able to withstand multiple chemical and mechanical processes. It is easily mass-produced making it a low cost item. It is the most popular hair in the industry because it is comfortable to process at the manufacturing level and there is no shortage of supply. Ventilating a hairpiece does not require as much skill or care as with cuticle hair.
Disadvantages: Poor Quality. Chinese hair requires extensive chemical processing to output hair that simulates European texture, color and body. The majority of the hair is collected and processed as double drawn, non-remy hair that requires heavy-duty chemicals to remove cuticle layers. It is still at a high risk for severe tangling problems because the cuticles are large and the layers are dense. The thick strands reflect light differently and appear 3 times as large next to Caucasian hair.
Common Use: Inexpensive off-shelf wigs, hairpieces and machine made hair extensions.
Indian Hair (aka Asian Hair, Italian Hair): A variety of fiber types from fine and straight, medium thick with bodywave and curly to thick coarse hair. “Italian hair” is actually Indian hair that has been processed in Italy or Spain and then sold at premium prices.
Advantages: High Quantity, Good Quality, Variety and Low Manufacturing Cost. Indian hair is popular to use for custom made hairpieces because it can be made to resemble European hair. Although prices for remy Indian hair increase every 2-3 months, it is still available in the less expensive non-remy form. The Indian hair fiber is small in diameter compared to Chinese hair and after chemical processing can feel and look just like European hair. Finally, a great attribute of Indian hair is that it comes in a full range of textures and body.
Disadvantages: Low Quality and Higher Retail Cost. Indian hair still requires quite a lot of chemical processing to make it appear as European hair. And the efforts to maintain the integrity of remy hair and/or buy the best quality in India can increase prices closer to European hair. To reduce time and materials, many manufacturers choose to work with non-remy Indian hair, which must undergo the same processes as Chinese hair that results in a poorer quality. Indian hair is also known to have split ends; lice and most exporters handle the hair badly.
Common Use: The remy hair is often produced as European or Italian hair for custom-made wigs and hair extensions. The non-remy hair is processed for custom-made hairpieces and less expensive wigs and machine and hand made hair extensions.
European Hair (aka Russian Hair, Caucasian Hair): A fine to medium density fiber that is naturally straight to slight wave and available in a variety of natural colors, most commonly dark blonds to medium browns. The Virgin colors will often be streaked with lighter shades or the ends will be much lighter than the roots due to weathering.
Advantages: High Quality. True Caucasian hair, whether originating from Russia, Eastern Europe or even the United States, is the best quality for the European and American market. The fine textures and natural colors eliminate the need for extensive processing and can often be sold as is (virgin hair). It easily matches the density of Caucasian customers so the hairpiece or extension blends in with their own hair.
Disadvantages: Low Quantity and High Cost. It has always been an availability problem and is becoming more difficult to source lengths longer than 15 inches and of a good quality. Limited availability makes the European hair a valuable item. The care that must be taken at the manufacturing level, as the fiber is fragile in comparison to Indian and Chinese hair, adds to the overall cost of working with European hair. Usually those that choose to work with this hair want it as close to its virgin state as possible, so much care and skill must be taken when ventilating a wig or hairpiece to keep the roots in one direction and properly trimmed to avoid tangles.
Common Use: High priced custom wigs, hairpieces and hand made hair extensions. Preferred hair type by production companies for the film industry.
GRADE
Cuticle Hair (aka Remy Hair, Virgin Hair): Cuticle hair can refer to all hair, no matter the origin. It defines the state of the fiber and quality. The cuticle layers have not been chemically altered and care must be taken to keep roots and tips from running opposite directions.
Advantages: High Quality. Hair with cuticles usually has the feel and look of natural hair. It retains dye colors and perms better than processed hair and lasts longer through normal wear and tear because the cuticles act as a protective layer for the rest of the fiber.
Disadvantages: High Cost and Tangles. Cuticle hair is considered a higher grade of hair and the time and care during production make it a more expensive hair. If not properly handled or cared for before and during the life of the hair replacement or extension, it is prone to tangle. (Although it costs the manufacturer more to process hair to non-cuticle, many have the opinion that cuticle hair is more expensive. They are confusing the cost of ventilating cuticle hair with the hair process cost. Non-cuticle hair is a more expensive hair but easier to ventilate. Cuticle hair is a less expensive hair but requires greater skill to ventilate.)
Common Use: High priced custom wigs, hairpieces and hand made hair extensions. Can only be manufactured by factories that know how to work with cuticle hair.
Non-Cuticle Hair (aka Processed Hair): This hair type can also refer to all hair no matter the origin, including European. The cuticles have been chemically processed to remove the first few layers and fuse the remaining layers. The roots and tips can be mixed in opposite directions.
Advantages: Low Hairpiece Manufacturing Cost and No Tangles. Less labor time when making hairpieces or wigs and less hair required per unit. If cuticle process is done correctly, this is a permanent process and used to prevent tangles even if the roots and tips are mixed in opposite directions.
Disadvantages: High Hair Manufacturing Cost and Poor Quality. Unfortunately, this type of hair is usually mass-produced in large factories using harsh chemicals that greatly degrade the hair. Also the hair purchased for non-cuticle hair is usually non-remy hair. When the chemical process is applied poorly and the hair starts to tangle, it tangles severely. Dye colors and perms do not last and the overall damage to the hair creates a very short life for this type of hair.
Common Use: Low to medium priced hairpieces, machine-made extensions and wigs.
Virgin Hair (aka European Hair, Cuticle Hair): All hair types no matter the origin. Usually refers to European hair as Chinese and Indian hair is rarely sold in their original colors and textures. This is hair that has not been chemically altered at any time and care must be taken to keep roots and tips from running in opposite directions.
Advantages: High Availability and Low Hair Manufacturing Costs. When it is truly virgin hair, the manufacture has very little preparation to perform before selling it. The lack of chemical processing leaves the hair in a healthy and natural state resulting in a longer life for the finished unit.
Disadvantages: Low Availability and High Cost. The dwindling availability of good virgin European hair, especially in lengths longer than 15” has made it an expensive commodity. There is still quite a bit of hair to find, but most of it is very old hair that has a musty odor and tangles very easily. Unfortunately, most Russian exporters are selling this type of hair.
Common Use: High priced custom wigs, hairpieces and hand made hair extensions.
Processed Hair (aka Non-Cuticle Hair, Non-Remy Hair, Asian Hair): All hair types can be chemically processed (cuticles, color, texture). Usually the term processed refers to non-cuticle hair and its most common form is non-remy hair. If handled well by the hair manufacturer, processed hair can retain much of its original quality properties.
Advantages: Variety. The hair manufacturer is able to chemically alter the cuticles, color and texture of the hair to simulate European grade hair and offer multiple color and textures to the customer.
Disadvantages: High Manufacturing Costs and Low Quality. The hair manufacturer must apply multiple chemical processes to the hair. Each process lowers the quality of the hair and shortens the life of the finished piece.
Common Use: All types of wigs, hairpieces and extensions.
Single Drawn Hair (aka Cuticle Hair, Virgin Hair, Remy Hair): A bundle of hair, no matter its origin or grade that appears like a ponytail because all the short lengths of regrowth hair are kept in the bundle. Many a novice buyer thinks the shorter lengths are split ends. Different manufacturers sell bundles of hair in single drawn form, but sometimes split the percentage of short hair and sell at a higher rate. They may decide to take out perhaps 50% of the shortest lengths and leave the rest in the bundle.
Advantages: High Availability, High Quality and Low Manufacturing Cost. Single Drawn Remy hair is much easier to process the cuticles than Double Drawn Non-Remy hair because it requires less chemicals and processing time. This leads to a higher quality type of hair. The shorter lengths make the bundles appear tapered, therefore more natural. (Many prefer this type of hair. For example, one famous actress insisted that her wig be made with single drawn hair because the shorter lengths give it the perfect look.)
Disadvantages: High Manufacturing Cost. The ratio of short hairs to longer hair within a bundle is usually greater, which causes a high amount of loss and waste. The manufacturer must purchase higher quantities to account for the wastage.
Common Use: Medium to high quality hairpieces, wigs and hair extensions.
Double Drawn Hair (aka Non-Cuticle Hair, Processed Hair, Non-Remy Hair): A bundle of hair, no matter its origin or grade that is all one length. There are no shorter lengths of hair present, which creates a very smooth and polished look. Due to expense and availability with Remy hair, Non-Remy Processed hair is usually sold double drawn. The term refers to a mechanical process that draws out all the shorter lengths from a bundle, and then draws again to realign the top of the bundle.
Advantages: High Quality for Remy Hair, Low Cost and High Availability for Non-Remy Hair. One length creates a seamless silky curtain of hair that looks picture perfect. It gives the illusion of very healthy hair that has never suffered normal wear and tear.
Disadvantages: High Cost and Low Availability for Remy Hair. Hair grows and breaks and regrows so that a natural head of hair contains several different lengths of hair. When a ponytail of hair is donated or sold, the bundle tapers down to a point. If the bundle is 18” in length and you draw out only the strands that are 18”, you are left with only a few strands of hair that represent maybe 10-15% of the bundle. The rest of the bundle contains the shorter regrowth hair. It would take 10 kilos of single drawn 18” hair to make 1 kilo of double drawn 18” hair. This makes it very expensive and undesirable for the manufacturer who is now left with 9 kilos of shorter hair. It is much more cost effective to offer double drawn non-remy hair, but the blunt one length look makes the hair appear synthetic.
Common Use: From Non-Remy hair: Low cost, off the shelf hairpieces and wigs. From Remy hair: High priced custom wigs and hairpieces.
Remy Hair (aka Cuticle Hair): Hair that was carefully bundled at the roots from the moment it is cut from donor and maintained throughout production – the cuticles run in same direction. This hair is usually processed to non-cuticle, but the root direction is maintained.
Advantages: Low Hair Manufacturing Cost, High Quality. The cuticles are not always removed for remy hair, therefore lowering productions costs and time. If the cuticles are processed, it is much easier than non-remy hair due to less chemicals and processing time. The reduced chemical processing reduces the level of damage that leads to a relatively higher percentage of moisture, as opposed to other types of chemically treated hair. This prevents the straw-like appearance that happens with processed non-remy hair within the first few months.
Disadvantages: High Cost, Low Availability and High Hair Manufacturing Costs. For unknown reasons, the temples that collect the hair do not take care to keep the roots and ends sorted correctly; therefore the resource of non-remy is much more than remy hair. Remy hair with cuticles require smaller batches and careful processing during production to avoid matting and tangling the hair during bath circulations.
Common Use: High Quality, custom-made hairpieces, wigs and hair extensions. (Our lab tests on many hairpieces submitted to us by customers have shown that the units were actually made with non-cuticle non-remy hair, although they were told that it was remy hair.)
Non-Remy Hair (aka Non-Cuticle Hair, Processed Hair, Asian Hair): Hair that was cut and collected from the floor so that roots and ends are mixed. To solve the inevitable tangling, the cuticles must be chemically removed. Non-Remy hair is sold in Double Drawn form.
Advantages: Low Cost. The reasons factories in the Orient prefer to buy this type of hair are for two reasons: 1) It is much cheaper than Remy hair, 2) you can bleach and dye several kilos of hair in one batch without worrying about matting during circulation, thereby lowering the manufacturing costs significantly.
Disadvantages: Low Quality. The hair must undergo heavy chemical processes to remove cuticles. As a result the hair becomes very dry over a short period of time. The proceeding bleaching and dyeing reduces the diameter of the hair, creates dry course hair that eventually splits and cracks along the fiber. The tips are already vulnerable naturally due to years of growth and weathering. In Non-Remy hair the tips are running both directions so the entire bundle suffers split ends and breakage. There is also uneven distribution of fiber thickness since some roots are at the top and some at the bottom of the bundle, which makes it resistant to combing.
Common Use: Medium to low priced hairpieces, wigs and extensions.
TYPE
Caucasian: Russian Hair. Very small resources in Poland and Romania.
Asian: Chinese and Indian Hair. Very small resources in Philippines, Vietnam and other small countries, but the quantities are so small that they are not really considered.
It is important to analyze the benefits of frequent hair rotation versus the possible loss in hair quality before you make a recommendation to your client. Could it be that today's new service plans have your clients wearing hair that is no better than yesterday's hair systems after six months of wear? To understand the dilemma, you must to see it through the eyes of a hair factory manager. Hair factories have a choice of many different grades and sources of human hair. The highest grade is of European origin, usually from Eastern Europe. This is the most expensive hair available anywhere and the longer lengths are limited in supply. Next comes Indian hair, which in many respects, with the exception of color, can resemble European hair. Finally there is a Chinese hair, known for its strength and affordability.
Top quality European hair can cost up to 10 or 15 times as much as the cheapest Chinese hair. Expectedly, the price differences are most dramatic in the longer lengths. Price variations for short hair are much closer. However, when you multiply those price differentials by the number of systems manufactured, the impact becomes dramatic.
But the cost of goods is not the only consideration. Factory managers also have to maintain close relationships with their overseas suppliers and the cost of travel, ongoing contact, and the business infrastructure necessary to accurately place and track regional orders can be considerable. So the search for economies is inevitable and you need to know where those savings are likely to happen – and who is going to be affected by them.
A client who is replacing his hair system every 4 to 12 weeks is unlikely to receive exactly the same hair he got in the past. Professionals should be aware of those differences even if their client is not. If the client used to wear European or Indian hair, the first point of difference may be the diameter (denier) of their new hair. The hair that is most likely to be used in high-turnover system comes from China and has a thickness of 0.1 mm and up on average. As a result, it is not going to have the same texture, luster and manageability as European hair, or even Indian hair, even after decuticalisation.
Furthermore, it is likely that the color palette has had to be changed and this means removing much of the original, dark hair pigmentation and re-dyeing the hair, usually with a fabric die, to the desired shade. While most factories have perfected this technology, it is nonetheless an assault on the hair, and it becomes more vulnerable no matter how gentle the color correction process may have been.
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